That being said, there are ways around the opti terrors, while you can rig up a "retro" (i believe the phrase was) setup with a crank trigger wheel, you can also move forward with an LTCC setup that utilizes LS1 coil on cylinder setup but its also powered some monstrous motors as well. One thing to remember with the opti, is that it can fail and when it does, it fails hard. but the water pump is also driven off a coupling hooked to the cam instead of a regular belt so that in the event of a snapped belt, you can still drive a good distance without overheating the car.
the water pump (when it goes out, which is a rare thing as they are built beefy as crap), has a weep hole on the bottom of it that drips onto the opti when the pump goes out. its located on the front of the motor, under the water pump, tho having a 95, you should have the later version of the opti that is vented to prevent failure from moisture. The major thing that most people will tell you is that with the LT1 you have to watch out for the Opti-spark distributor. they are both great motors and they both have their downfalls. Its not always easy to compare a 2nd gen motor to a 3rd gen motor. It might make a swap affordable if you can find the right deal and get all the parts for it. You can get a crate motor that's pretty complete and junkyard motors even cheaper and more complete. IMVHO, get the mag' and keep reading and see what they say. The LS1 doesn't have as big a problem as this although the springs and pushrods don't like going above 6K RPMs. The LT1 is plagued with that Optispark and water pump which are problematic unless you go with Petronix (?sp?) and retro' most of the ignition system. They're replacing the wiring harness too because the previous owner swapped the OEM M6 for an auto and the Rick Jensen (the owner of the car and EAC of GMHTP) has swapped an M6 back in - though the harness was hacked by the previous owner.įor a quick answer, I think a swap would net you better results in the long-run but still cost more.
They are swapping an LS3480 into an '01 Z28. I'd say keep a look out for the current and next couple issues of GMHTP. Well, you'll spend a lot of money on a retro'. A lot of what made this engine was the head design which did make the first truck Vortec heads a lot better.ĭid you have a particular question in mind or just a general idea what the differences were, because aside from the bore spacing and lifters, the two pretty much share no similarities. Many of these were not compatable with SBC engines because of the reverse-flow cooling. The LT1 had special heads, intake, water pump, distributor and a couple other things. There's a bunch of stuff out there, but I think because the LS1 was made for longer, with variations in many more cars, there is just a bigger market. The LT1 pulled really well down low but that defficiency has been made-up for, in my case, with the converter.ĭon't get me wrong - you can build a great LT1. That 50 or 60 RWHP is right about in-line with the differences in trap speed. Most OEM LT1s were right around 230 to 240 RWHP or so while OEM LS1s were right around 300 to 310. both were close to the same weight and I had a tougher time launching the '95 but the trap speed tells the tail of horsepower. My '02, with a lid and catback, had run a best of a like a 13.1 108 when my '95 with some SLP mids', FIPK, and the same CB, ran a best of 13.7 103.
My LS1, even with a medium-sized stall, will pull up to and would pass 6K RPMs if it had a good valvetrain. I've had a '95 M6 LT1 and have an '02 A4 LS1 and there is a night and day difference.
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